LED downlights in fixed and gimble formats, with tri-colour and dimmable options. IC-4 and fire-rated models suitable for insulated ceilings.
Choosing downlights
What cut-out size do I need?
Measure the hole already in the ceiling, not the fitting. 90mm is the most common cut-out in Australian homes and 70mm is the smaller standard. Ordering the wrong one means either a visible gap or patching and repainting plaster, so measure before you buy.
How many downlights does a room need?
A rough starting point is to space them at about half the ceiling height apart — on a 2.4m ceiling, roughly 1.2m between centres — and keep them 600 to 900mm off the walls. Then sanity-check the total lumens against the room: a kitchen wants considerably more light than a bedroom.
What is a fire-rated or IC-rated downlight?
IC-rated fittings may be covered by ceiling insulation without a clearance gap, which matters in almost every modern insulated ceiling. Fire-rated fittings maintain the ceiling's fire resistance where that is required. Your electrician will tell you which your ceiling needs.
What beam angle should I choose?
Around 60 degrees for general room lighting, 36 to 45 for a kitchen bench or task area, and 24 or narrower for accent work. Wide beams overlap into even light; narrow beams give punch and contrast but leave gaps if spaced like general lighting.
What does tri-colour mean on a downlight?
A switch on the fitting selects between three colour temperatures, typically 3000K, 4000K and 5700K, set at installation. It is useful when you are not certain which suits the room, and it lets one product cover living areas and wet areas.
